| Torque wrench | A torque wrench capable of going up to 83foot pounds (ft/lbs). There are also parts that require torques as little as 7 Newton meters (nm), so you might need to have two torque wrenches handy. However, if you were to purchase just one, go for the big one that’s capable of the bigger torques and use proper estimation rules for the lower torques such as “snug” or “tight”. |
| Sockets | 3/8’’ drive will probably be okay for most applications involved with the Bostig Kit, though 1/2’’ drive might be preferred for some of the more tightly torqued bolts. A variety of extensions in whatever size drive you end up going with will prove useful, a 3’’ most likely being the most often used followed closely by a 6’’. If you find you need one longer, a 10’’ is a popular size, but with the 3’’ and the 6’’ you can build a pretty nice 9’’ extension for no additional cost! When it comes to the sockets, you will have the options of deep well or “regular” in each of your various drive sizes, along with 12 point or 6 point sockets. As a general rule, a 6 point socket is a better socket as it leaves less possibility of potentially stripping out the head of a bolt, but since we’re dealing with all new hardware, a 12 point socket should suffice.
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| | 5.5mm | 7mm | 8mm | 10mm | 13mm | 14mm | 15mm | 17mm | 18mm | 19mm | 22mm | 1/4"
(or nutdriver)
| 5/16"
(or nutdriver)
| 3/8" | 5/8"
Spark plug socket |
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| Nut Drivers | You will find it handy to have the following sized nut drivers available to your use. A nut driver is really just a socket attached to a screw driver handle, and sometimes 1/4" drive or 3/8" driver handles are available that will allow you to use sockets you may already have so as not to need to purchase nut drivers. Additionally, you might be able to get away with just using your extensions and sockets/ratchet, but regardless of the course you decide to pursue, you need the following sizes:
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| Scouring pad | A scotchbrite pad or similar scouring pad can be used to remove any potential burrs from the pilot bearing bung on the crankshaft before installing the flywheel, they are also useful in general cleanup of the engine.
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Hammer or mallet
| A hammer or mallet is used to install the pilot bearing and assure the outer surface of the bearing is mounted flush with the outer surface of the bung on the crankshaft. A “soft” hammer is preferred so as not to leave any permanent marks or imperfections on the metal of the surfaces you’re hitting, but if you so choose to use a steel hammer rather than a soft plastic or brass one, be sure to use a block of wood between the hammer and the surface you’re pounding. The heavier the hammer, the less effort it takes to give it a good whack, but since not too much effort should be needed anywhere in this kit, and a smaller hammer tends to yield more precise knocks, we use a medium or small sized hammer. If your hammer face is small enough to fit inside the bearing, you run the risk of hammering the bearing in too far or ruining it.
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Diagonal Cutters
| These are very useful when you need to remove the WBX engine from the vanagon, as it’s wiring harness is held in place by a staggering number of zip ties. |
| Masking Tape | It is for instance used during the installation of the pilot bearing but can also be used to mark things throughout the conversion process so that you know what hoses or lines will eventually attach to what. |
| A ‘Sharpie’ or black permanent marker | You can use any brand, the key is that this goes hand in hand with the above masking tape, and it’s a wonderful tool that will come in handy when you go to labeling things or marking positions of things (Say the position of the flywheel to line it up with the bolt holes). |
| A Bunch of Bags | You’re going to need at least a pair of grocery bags to put over the CV’s (Drive axles) after you remove them from the transmission in order to keep dirt from getting into the grease (and from grease getting EVERYWHERE). Furthermore, a bunch of small zip-lock style sandwich or snack sized bags come in handy when it’s time to store 4 screws together that you’ll have to put back on later, and with the help of your Sharpie, you’ll figure out what they belong too! Maybe use your tape too to tape the bag to the item in question. An example would be, take the 4 screws off the tail light assembly and put them into a bag. Label the bag “Passenger side taillight assembly”, and tape it to the lens. This will help everything go back together smoothly. Anyone can take things apart….but putting them back together can be an entirely different story. |
| Philips Head Screwdriver | You might need more than one, a variety of sizes and lengths is nice to have, but this is a tool you’ll find yourself using from time to time to tighten down hose clamps, remove WBX engine components and taillights, and it will come in handy for general household use in the future. |
| Flat Head Screwdriver | Pretty much everything that was just mentioned about the ‘Philips Head’ screwdriver applies to this one as well, in addition to it’s amazing ability to pry two things apart depending entirely upon the size of the head of the screwdriver, and the thickness of the shaft (Screwdrivers will bend…..). |
| Vice Grips | This is a wonderful tool that no mechanic should be without. It’s essentially a locking pliers that has a screw adjuster on the end of the handle. More often than not, you need them to lock into position, so you adjust the screw until the tool locks easily upon the object needing squeezed, then you unlock it, tighten the screw a little more, and hope that it locks down TIGHT. These are particularly wonderful for removing bolts with stripped heads or grabbing something equally slippery that feels compelled to escape. |
| Ramps/Jack stands | You need to get the rear end of the van high. Having the wheels 10" or so off the ground is generally more than enough, and this can be easily achieved by backing the van up onto a set of mechanics ramps and chucking the front tires with blocks of wood(2"x6" cut down are perfect), or jacking up the rear of the van and properly positioning a set of jack stands under the rear (And again, chocking the front tires with blocks!). |
| Blocks of wood | You will want to have various sized block of wood to work as a soft surface between your hammer and the part you’re hammering (if your hammer is not a soft one), blocks of wood to put between the floor jack and the transmission or floor jack and the engine, and block of wood to chock the wheels from allowing the van to roll forward off ramps/jack stands. (2) 2"x6"s cut to 6 inches or so work well on top of the wheel ramps for the extra clearance when pulling the old engine or installed the conversion.
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3/16" Allen Wrench or Driver
| This is needed if you are installing power steering from the zetec into your van. This Allen key will be used to install the brass plug that fills the void where the stock pressure switch would be on a vanagon. A 3/16" allen bit or socket-bit will also work.
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8mm Allen Wrench or Bit
| You will need this tool in order to install the long allen head starter bolt. A socket-bit on the end of a 6" extension is the easiest to use for this.
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| Adjustable Wrench or Pipe Wrench | You will need one or the other of these if installing power steering. This tool is used to reposition the intake pipe on the power steering pump to a different orientation. |
| Torx bits | These are used on the cam pulleys(if timing belt change is needed), coil bracket, and middle timing belt cover. You will need a T45 and T55 size.(smaller bit size required to fill in, need confirmation)
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| Inverted Torx bits | An E7 and E10 inverted Torx (in your choice of drive sizes) will be necessary for use throughout the conversion. |
| CV (Constant Velocity Drive Axle) bolt bit | Necessary CV (Constant Velocity Drive Axle) bolt tool. Depending entirely upon what hardware you have on your van, it could be either a “Triple Square” Bit in which case it would be an E8 size, or an Allen head socket in which case it would be an 6mm. |
| Wrenches | A good set of standard wrenches with an open end and a box end would be useful throughout the conversion.
The specific sizes needed will be 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 17mm, and 19mm. |
| Floor Jack | A Floor Jack is a very necessary tool for removing the engine and transmission as a unit. When it comes to floor jacks, you tend to get what you pay for, so quality is something to take note of when purchasing this wonderful tool. The bigger jacks tend to make the WBX removal a bit easier, especially those with a large face plate (the section of the floor jack that makes contact with whatever it is that’s being jacked). Make sure your jack has a good, operational set of swiveling caster wheels so that it can change direction when necessary (when hauling an engine for instance). |
| Engine Hoist | An Engine Hoist. There are many ways to safely lower the WBX out of your van and lift the Zetec in. Probably the easiest and most common method is with an engine hoist. These can be purchased from $150.00 or rented for about $25/Day. It is best to lower the engine and transaxle as a unit and then separate them later. Some of the more common methods involve using a floor jack with a chunk of wood (or transmission jack adapter) on it to support the engine while pulling it out. Other possibilities include using an ATV/Motorcycle jack or a hydraulic lift table. If you are working on a cement floor you could also just drop the engine on a piece of plywood or a strong piece of cardboard and then just yank it out. |
| Paper Towels | Paper Towels will be really useful. You will use them. Everything on your WBX is most likely covered in dirt. You’re most likely going to spill a ton of coolant onto that dirty WBX, and then….
You get to start handling it (taking it out of the car). In the end, there is just SOOO much stuff that can get you dirty on any car. Paper towels or the more durable (but slightly more expensive) blue shop towels are indispensable for things like plugging coolant pipes, catching spills etc.
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| Hand Cleaner | Hand Cleaner. Your hands are going to get dirty. It’s a dirty job. As a result, hand cleaner and paper towels should prove to be ideal in maintaining the same level of beauty inside your vanagon and home, as you are inside your vanagon’s engine bay. It also proves to be a great way to keep people from hating you. Fast Orange or other orange type cleaners are great. Make sure to apply them to dry hands, then work the dirt loose, then use water rinse off.
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| Tape Measure |
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| Scissors | Don't run with them.
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| Razor Knife | Normal cautions apply!
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| PB Blaster or similar penetrating oil | This is a canned substance that permeates deep into the threads of bolts that look suspiciously like they won’t come out easily, and tends to free them up from the inside. Any penetrating oil will work, everyone loves their own.
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| WD40 | WD40 is a useful product to have on hand throughout the conversion. It can help make hoses go on more easily, lubricate rubber surfaces when necessary, and acts as a good general purpose product to have on hand. It is also an excellent cleaner/wipedown agent for the engine during prep.
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| Red Threadlock | In general, threadlock is categorized by color regardless of the brand in question, but “red” means for “High strength”, so make sure you get some of that. Threadlock is an adhesive that keeps fasteners from vibrating loose or otherwise coming loose on their own.
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| Blue Threadlock | Blue means “medium strength” and can be used on any bolt that we do not specify Red.
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| RTV | Black or Grey adhesive silicon is what you want. It’s sticky stuff and makes a mess easily, so remember your paper towels and hand cleaner! Do not use household silicone caulking.
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| Drip Basins | The Vanagon cooling system holds quite a bit of coolant. No matter what, you have ALWAYS left some in there. It is impossible to get it all out and it is most likely that you will find another gallon of it hidden somewhere in the system when you least expect it, and it will run down your arm and ruin your day. As a result, you want a large pan of some type to collect the coolant when you open up the system. A large bucket or a bunch of gallon containers will be nice for storing the coolant while your doing your conversion, or disposing of it via the proper recycling channels. Bostig recommends using a wet/dry vac to remove as much coolant as possible from the cooling system before removing any hoses, and we recommend contacting your local authorities as to how to properly dispose of coolant. Many auto parts stores will take it back and recycle it properly, though this varies with location.
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| Absorbent Clay or Kitty Litter | This is for the mess that can result from letting the coolant spill out, and missing your drip basins. |
| Safety Goggles | It’s not very nice getting anything in your eyes, it really isn’t. |
| A cap | Some of us have long hair, but despite how long or short your hair is, no one likes to have it full of dirt. Furthermore, long hair can be dangerous when working around an ything with moving parts(remember at some point, we’re going to start that zetec up!). A cheap winter cap, welders cap, or baseball hat can do the trick.
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| Cardboard | A bunch of big boxes cut in half make for a much nicer surface to lay on when you’re climbing under the vanagon, they make for a better surface to lay parts and engine out on, and can be used to absorb small spills. It also allows you slide a bit, and is sometimes even better than a creeper if the surface is uneven.
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| Brake Cleaner or Acetone | Having some heavy duty solvent available will be handy, as you will need to remove any grease from the flywheel friction surface and from the heat shield for the exhaust manifold. “Engine cleaner” of some sort may be useful as well when prepping your zetec for installation. |
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