(Below are links to the engine damage check videos, which is also useful to view before calling)

v1.X: http://www.bostig.com/files/engine_damage_check_and_prep.wmv

v2.0  http://www.bostig.com/files/engine_prep_v2.wmv

Q: What exactly am I after? What constitutes the "engine"?
A: You are after the commonly held definition of a salvage engine, which is
intake to exhaust manifold, no accessories (you might get lucky though),
no hoses, no intake tract(airbox etc).

Q: Does sourcing an engine from an automatic or a manual matter?

A: No

Q: What is the intake manifold ID?  Does it matter?
A: The intake manifold ID corresponds to a version of intake on the engines.
There are only two IDs possible for the 00-03 DOHC Focus engines we're
talking about.  WS4E is the one we use most often, and are much more
common than the other type.  You'll see the possible intake manifold IDs
when you do your first search at car-part.com. It makes no difference which ID you get.

Please do use car-part.com,
as you will save yourself huge amounts of time and headaches in finding
an engine. Small yards can hold some gems, but unless you check
car-part.com first you could be wasting time. It sounds like an ad
for them, but aside from the speed and effectiveness we get no benefit.

Video Tutorial on using car-part.com

Download video file

When you call the yard, the first thing you say should simply be this:

"Hi I’m looking for an engine from a 2001 Ford Focus"

Then they should ask you "which motor?" or "is it the dual or the single?" or "I've got a couple to choose from"

"It’s the Dual Over head Cam Engine. I've got the intake manifold ID if that helps."

Note: Remember either intake is fine WS4E or the 988F

When visiting www.car-part.com to build your call list, use the following options:

2001

Ford Focus

DOHC

All areas(or near you)

Sort by price.

The lowest priced page(of the links at the bottom of the returned results pages) will have a “*” next to it, start with the least expensive and work back in the pages, the notes sometimes have useful information.  You'll see some abbreviations too. "TMU" means "True Mileage Unknown" skip it. Sometime the mileage isn't written in the mileage column but in the notes instead.

Make sure the person at the yard goes out to inspect the engine. Don’t take someone’s word for it, the sales person at the yard may be less than helpful, and may not want to go check the engine themselves.  The engine should be checked for the following:

• Water in the spark plug gallery.(under the plug boots, centerline of the engine)
• Cracks/impacts to the lower aluminum crank case.
• Breakage of any of the 4 nipples on the intake(which is plastic),or if the intake itself is cracked anywhere.
• Damage to the steel oil sump/pan.
• Missing parts, brackets

You have to ask the sales person to pull the spark plug wires and check for water.  The water usually comes from when the yard washes the engine, or from the engine sitting in the car with the hood up.

It can be a pain if your engine has water in the spark plug gallery, as all water and rust particulates will need to cleaned out with a vacuum and a very tiny stiff brush so the plugs can be removed and no debris falls into the cylinders.  Sometimes the yard will tell you "Yes its dry, there is no water in the spark plug gallery", but they didn't actually check.  If your engine arrives with water in the spark plug gallery(happens perhaps 15% of the time), leave it on the pallet with the packing/ strapping still in place and take several photos of the engine with the water in the galley and also whatever paint markings on the engine that the yard puts on it so they know it is one of their engines.  You'll then want to call the yard back and explain the situation.  Make the situation seem like a big deal and that you can still use the engine begrudgingly, it's just that its going to add some work/time to to get it ready to go into the car.   It's at this point that you can refresh their memory  as to how you stressed the point about the galley being clean to begin with, perhaps how they assured you it was fine, and that you need to be compensated for the added work/time since it is their mistake.  In these cases we usually ask the yard for 150 to 200 dollars back and get it.

Make sure to ask the yard to check the plastic intake for cracks in the runners, and that the vacuum nipples are not broken off anywhere.  If you decide to purchase the engine,  tell the yard to ship the engine upright or on the exhaust manifold side so the intake does not get broken in shipping. If the intake is broken upon arrival call the yard and send photos to work out compensation for the damages.  Broken nipples can work or be repaired just one of the smaller ones really needs to be fine, a broken/cracked intake(rare) needs replacing.

Typically a complete zetec engine has all of its bracketry, its ignition coil and plug wires, and heat shield(all of which you'll want).  It will not have engine accesories like the alternator and power steering pump, but sometimes you get lucky.  The tensioner pulley may or may not be there.  Missing brackets are the trickiest thing to source afterward, so they should get you some major money off if they're missing. If the yard guy/gal gives you the "our engines aren't guaranteed with brackets" just tell him you've sourced 50 of these engines in the last year, and they all came with brackets(which is true, since it's true for us, and you should consider yourself part owner of that body of information). Sometimes you can get a yard to send you missing brackets if they're large enough(if they don't have other zetecs to pulls brackets from how can they send you replacements?), you complain enough, and you're firm enough.

Injector Harnesses

There are two wiring harnesses involved in the conversion. The small "Injector Harness" that comes on your engine, and the the main wiring harness that comes with the kit. Below are the two variants of the injector harness plug style. The purple matches the provided main harness, however if you happen to have a red style injector harness(left), you must choose one of the options listed here: http://www.bostig.com/products/bostig-v20-options/injector-sub-harness-refit