Home Support Bostig v2.0 Guide II. Install SK-E, Exhaust Sub-Kit
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SK-E, Exhaust Sub-Kit
Download video file This video covers the v2.0 SK-E

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Sockets 10mm / 13mm / 15mm / 17mm
Long Extension (8” min)
Ratchet
Torque Wrench
3/8” Wrench
9/16” Wrench
O2 Sensor Socket or 22mm Open End Wrench
Small Phillips Screwdriver or Awl
Hack Saw or Angle Grinder
File (half round)
Gloves (provided in kit)
Scissors
Masking Tape
Red Threadlock
Anti-Seize Lubricant (provided with O2 sensor)

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#40 Clamp (stainless steel) 1
Exhaust Main Section (includes cat & flex) 1
Heatshield Cutting Template 1
Inlet Clamp Assembly 1
Inlet Hanger Assembly 1
M10 Nut 3
Manifold Gasket 1
Manifold Heatshield (ceramic fabric) 1
Nord-Lock Washer 3
Outlet Hanger Assembly 1
PVC Gloves 1
Rock Auto order list:
O2 Sensor (15284) 1
Muffler (Walker 21141) 1
Rubber Hanger (Walker 35460) 2

 

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Align the supplied exhaust gasket into the groove on the flange of the catalytic converter and then lift the main exhaust assembly into place on the exhaust manifold.  Install one Nord-Lock washer and one M10 nut onto each of the three exhaust studs.  Torque fasteners to 35ft/lbs.

** Note:  The nut on the rear of the exhaust flange is difficult to access.  Use masking tape to hold the nut and washer inside the socket to ease installation.

Install the O2 sensor into the bung on the main exhaust section.  Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the threads if it is not already present.  Do not allow anti-seize to contact the inside of the sensor.  Snug the sensor down to about 15-20ft/lbs.

Using the provided paper template, cut the ceramic fabric heat shield to the proper shape.  Standard scissors will work fine for this step. Be sure to wear the gloves included in the kit when handling the ceramic heat shield.

Place the ceramic fabric heat shield into the metal exhaust manifold heat shield being careful not to tear the fabric. 

Install the metal heat shield (with ceramic fabric inner liner) onto the exhaust manifold using the stock fasteners.  Torque fasteners to 89 in/lbs.

To prepare the inlet side of the muffler, slide the inlet clamp / hanger assembly onto the inlet pipe of the muffler.  Align the edge of the clamp so that 1/8-1/4” overhangs the pipe and mark the inside edge of the clamp with a sharpie.

Using an angle grinder or a hacksaw, cut 2 slots (on opposite sides) of the inlet pipe from the outer edge of the pipe to the marks made in the previous step.  The slots should be about 1/8” wide and parallel with the long oval sections of the muffler (widest points).  Be sure to de-burr the slots so the muffler will easily slide onto the main exhaust section.

***INSERT PHOTOS OF CLAMP ALIGNMENT AND PROPER CUTTING EXAMPLE.

Slide the lower muffler inlet clamp/hanger assembly onto the main exhaust so the hanger bar is at the top and facing toward the passenger side rear wheel.  Push it forward onto the main exhaust so it will allow the muffler to slide onto the main exhaust pipe.

Install the muffler onto the main exhaust pipe and slide it forward until it is just past the slots you cut earlier.  Once the muffler is in place align the inlet clamp/hanger so it covers the slots and snug it down enough to hold it in place, but still allow further adjustment.

Install the upper muffler inlet hanger to the lower lip of the frame rail directly above the lower inlet clamp/hanger.  Before tightening the upper hanger onto the frame rail, install one of the rubber muffler hangers over the 2 posts so it hangs between the upper and lower hangers and supports the weight of the muffler.

Install the muffler outlet hanger directly above the lower outlet hanger (welded to the tailpipe).  Install a rubber muffler hanger before tightening the top hanger.

Adjust the hangers as necessary by bending the bars of the upper hangers slightly until they fully support the weight of the muffler without any slack.  Be careful not to put too much pressure (pre-load) on the rubber exhaust donuts as this will cause them to wear prematurely.

Once all adjustments are made, torque the muffler inlet clamp/hanger to 45ft/lbs.  The upper hangers should be torqued to 35ft/lbs and the jamb nuts should be snugged up.  Use of threadlock on the jamb nuts is recommended.

**Note - The lower inlet clamp/hanger assembly may require trimming if larger than stock tires are present.  Leave at least 1” of hanger material past the rubber donut hanger when trimming.


Aluminum Deck-Lid Heat Shield

Orient the deck-lid upside down (foam facing up) with the turnable locks facing away from you and the tabs facing toward you.  Align the aluminum heat shield to the right side of the deck-lid so four rows of squares in the foam remain visible.  Mark the six fastener locations on the aluminum heat shield onto the deck-lid foam using a paint marker or a sharpie and set the aluminum heat shield aside.

Cut the aluminum welding rod into 6 inch sections and make a 90 degree bend in each section about 1” from the end.

Holding the short bend as a handle, pierce the deck-lid foam (working from the center of the heat shield area outward) and slide the rods until the 1” bend is all that is left showing.  Twisting the rods as they slide through the foam may help with insertion.  There is a reinforcing mesh inside the foam that will help to hold the rods securely in place.  Repeat for the remaining five rods.

Center the ceramic fabric heat shield evenly over the rods and press down to pierce the fabric.  Align the aluminum heat shield over the rods and lower over the ceramic fabric.

Using needle nose pliers bend each of the rods outward over the aluminum heat shield into a “D” shape and poke the end down into the deck-lid foam.  This will safely secure the heat shield in place and protect the deck-lid from high temps from the exhaust manifold.

 

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