Insert the power steering res into the bracket, and position by hand along the back wall taking into account two things: 1) Allow 1" or greater clearance between the power steering pump pulley and the power steering res 2) Make sure the res lid(black) is underneath the rear beam of the body. Mark the hole locations on the bracket and centerpunch/drill them. Then install res/bracket together.
Align power steering pump on engine block and install 4 M8x60 bolts with washers using red
threadlock. Torque fasteners to 18ft/lbs.
Using an adjustable wrench turn the large nipple on the power steering pump so it is
horizontal (toward the back of the van) to ease install of hoses.
Hose Installation & Hookup
Remove the pressure sender on the stock vanagon power steering pressure line. Plug the
resulting hole with the provided brass plug.
Connect the vanagon power steering pressure line to the bottom of the Zetec pump as it would be installed on the stock pump. Install the provided crush washers on each side of
the banjo fitting and thread the hollow bolt into the pump. Carefully position the pressure
line so that it clears the PS pump pulley. The proper orientation for the hard section of
metal tubing connected to the banjo bolt will be facing slightly toward the front of the van
and slightly upward toward the engine bay decklid. Torque the banjo bolt to 35ft/lbs.
Attach the provided return hose (Alfa Goma) to the bottom nipple of the PS reservoir, and to
the return port of the zetec power steering pump using the supplied #12 hose clamps. This
reinforced hose may need to be trimmed to length with a hack saw or angle grinder to achieve
proper routing. Be sure to clean out any bits of rubber and steel left over after trimming
to avoid damage to the power steering system. Route the hose in a gentle loop (away from
the exhaust system) to avoid putting too much stress on the bottom nipple of the PS
reserviour.
Refill the system as necessary with ATF Dexron II.
The stock Vanagon brake booster check valve will be reused. On 2WD vans you must remove the check valve and then pull the hard nylon brake booster vacuum line thru the firewall, then run it along the frame rail under the Zetec intake manifold. On Syncros this is near the stock location.
The brake booster check valve only flows in one direction, so be sure to make note of the installation direction. The vacuum for the brake booster will be supplied by the intake manifold, so the direction of flow must be toward the rear of the van, as indiated by an arrow cast into the check valve.
Install the rubber brake booster couplers on each side of the stock check valve with 2 #10 hose clamps.
Push the check valve onto the black nylon vacuum line supplied in the kit and install a #10 hose clamp to hold it in place.
Push the check valve and nylon line assembly into the brake booster inlet (red locking fitting) then give it a tug to be sure that the fitting is holding it tight.
Trim the stock vacuum line to length and push it into the open end of the brake booster coupler.
Position the coolant bottle on the drivers side wall of the engine compartment so that the top surface of the lower bend in the bracket is 6.5” down from the bottom lip of the engine decklid opening and 6.5” (to center of bracket) back from the black plastic electrical distribution box on the drivers side firewall. Mark the 3 fastener locations and center punch and drill with an 11/64” (or 3/16”) bit. Install 3 #14 sheet metal screws and torque to 65in/lbs.
Install the coolant bottle using the provided #12 sheet metal screws and tighten until snug.
Remove the drivers side CV boot washers and install the speed ring halves in their place. Torque the bolts to 33ft/lbs.
Mount the clutch slave cylinder back onto the transmission (or hook the hydraulic line back onto to the cylinder, depending upon how you removed it).
Install the speed sensor into the speed sensor bracket. Snug the bolt just enough that it can still be adjusted.
Install the speed sensor assembly onto the lower bolt of the brace that supports the clutch slave cylinder. Snug the bolt just enough that it can still be adjusted.
Adjust the speed sensor so the plastic face is within within 1/8'' of the speed sensor ring outside edge. Once it is properly aligned, go back and completely tighten all of the bolts on the speed sensor and bracket.
In addition to the video, make sure to use anti-sieze or other anti-corrosive on the bolts that hold the two halves of the airbox together, they are known for rusting together and ripping the captive nut out of the plastic.
The use of the Throttle cable barrel to pin style adapter(if required) is not covered in the video. Instead of two styles of throttle cable ends, a single cable is now used with the adapter if you have a pin style throttle body. The barrel portion of the throttle cable is pressed into place so that the throttle cable sits inside the notch machined into the adapter. Although it appears the barrel is much too large to press into the adapter, the soft barrel will easily press into place with pliers or a vice. Make sure not to occlude the hole on the opposite side of the adapter while pressing it into place.
Comments
mcolgin
0
TIPS FOR INSTALLING DECK-HEATSHIELD.
These may work out for you too:
- Cut off a section of coat-hanger and use it as a tool to create the initial channel for the welding-rod to slide through. It's stiffer and helps to prevent breaking your welding-rod section as you try to push through the foam
- The cut-out on my Group 10 shield appears to be for the oil-cap for the engine, covering 6"-8" from the lip of the deck lid.
- Use some padded gloves for your on your first insertion with the coat hanger, it starts to hurt computer-guy thumbs after 2 or 3.
The power steering install will require an adapter to work on the Transporter pickups as the crossmember to the engine access door is located approx 8" above the Vanagon crossmember.
The heatsheild for the decklid is not necessary for the pickups for obvious reasons.
Support
Comments
These may work out for you too:
- Cut off a section of coat-hanger and use it as a tool to create the initial channel for the welding-rod to slide through. It's stiffer and helps to prevent breaking your welding-rod section as you try to push through the foam
- The cut-out on my Group 10 shield appears to be for the oil-cap for the engine, covering 6"-8" from the lip of the deck lid.
- Use some padded gloves for your on your first insertion with the coat hanger, it starts to hurt computer-guy thumbs after 2 or 3.
The heatsheild for the decklid is not necessary for the pickups for obvious reasons.