The OEM ford "finger trap" style nylon hose connection is often missing the retainer and o-ring. Purchasing this part from Ford costs $23, and even when complete can be hard to get a perfect seal. It is the most common vacuum leak location in the conversion, typically due to the nylon line not being perfectly round, or being routed incorrectly. This nipple replaces the ford part with a hose barb, for much easier and more positive connection. See video below for more detail.
Made in New Hampshire
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Reviews
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Vacuum Inlet Nipple
Works really well and takes care of a potential vacuum leak area. Was a bit tricky to install with the engine in, but patience and perseverance won out in the end. Good upgrade.
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use a woodworking clamp if the engine is already in...
i used this guy: https://www.amazon.com/Dewalt-DWHT83139-Medium-Bar-Clamp/dp/B006H8XAN8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496882523&sr=8-1&keywords=dewalt+hand+clamp went right in.... of course it took me a day of getting nowhere and literally inventing new swear words before i figured it out.
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Worth the effort
I installed this with the engine in the van. I used a small saws all blade to remove the old fitting. A large C clamp worked great to press the new fitting in, no room to swing a hammer. It is a bit tight working around there but well worth the effort. No more vac leaks.
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Easily solved vacuum leak
Had a vacuum leak at the brake booster even though I had replaced the stock ford valve with an oem one when I built up the engine. I would say, Jim makes it look easy to install if the engine is on the bench. Harder with the engine in the car, I ended up placing a 2x4 against the engine carrier and using lever action of a big screwdriver to drive the nipple into the hole. There is not enough room to hammer it in. Very satisfied with what will be a one time final solution to a multijointed problem waiting to happen. Went from 4 joints to 2.
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Ford should have done this
Replaces the often defective vacuum booster inlet, which leaks, but is hard to detect. You can't even easily replace it, you have to pick up the entire part when only the O-ring is bad. ($30 from TASCA) Smart to do this prior to installing the engine, but easy to do in-situ. Do it once, done forever! This is part of the bigger picture of providing solid reliability and continuous improvement that is the Bostig promise.